Solo But Far From Alone

WOW! It has been a while since I updated you all. In fact I have paddled more than 1,300km since my last blog! Which means that I have now passed 2,000km and I am in Galena, at the start of the Yukon Delta. Let me tell you, I have been having an amazing time! I have posted one or two updates on social media, but here’s the juicy goss and buckle in, because there is A LOT.

Getting to the Border 

Before I take you away from Dawson, I need to tell you a little bit more that happened in Dawson. I wrote my last blog in the morning of my rest day and A LOT happened that afternoon.

Firstly, and most importantly, I made a visit to the First Nations Cultural Centre in Dawson. This is not to be missed. I thankfully arrived just before 2.30pm which is when they show a film, a recommended start to a self guided tour through the exhibition. I was welcomed in, bought my ticket, and had enough time to sit and enjoy a free cuppa in an art-and-chat space. Here, I was lucky enough to meet the curator of the exhibition and another young first nations woman who shared some of their passion and stories with me. Then I went into a very fancy theatre to watch a short 15min film about the First Nations history in the area. It was beautiful, heart wrenching and inspiring. The perfect introduction to help me really understand everything in the exhibition. Along with that I was able to pick up a magazine that featured a double page on every First Nations group in the Yukon. I can’t say enough for the value of this experience and the quality of the exhibition. Truly a must see. 

The next thing I did in Dawson, was less inspiring, super gross, but a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity nonetheless. I did a shot of whisky with a preserved human toe in it. Yes, you heard right, and yes the toe touched my lips. People keep asking me what it tasted like. I want to be clear that I did NOT taste the toe. I tasted whisky and my tongue stayed in my mouth. It was a prudish kiss of a human toe in a shot of whisky, but I got a certificate. The best part of the whole thing was having Robert and the Raft Pirates join me. We all did a shot (except Robert, who has had too many before, and has now set his sights on one day being the captain with the serious task of administering the shots) and then enjoyed dinner together. All of these guys were so encouraging of me and my journey. Having people totally stoked about your trip and fully sure that you’re not crazy and you’re definitely going to make it is the best feeling. It’s a support that is so important, and I walked away that night feeling like I had made new friends who really believed in me! 

Getting to the Border

When you paddle out of Dawson the river just simply takes your breath away. So many people don’t keep going past Dawson, and boy, they are missing out. The mountains rise up and before you know it, you’re in the Yukon Charlie National Park. The forest here is thick and diverse with a mix of evergreens and deciduous trees that give the mountains more depth and beauty. The current picks up again. It really hoots along and makes the paddling even more enjoyable. Although there were fires around the river, the crews in the area had managed to get them under control, with the help of some rain, by the time I went through. In Dawson, I met some of the local First Nations Fire Crew. Really cool to see that traditional fire management and control is happening out here too.

I was keen to catch up to Mary and Cole as I still wasn’t sure what would be decided at the border. They were finishing at the border, so at least if we crossed together, I would have a ride out of Eagle if the worst happened. In a mix of catch up efforts, and a lack of a campsite for sometime, I ended up paddling 104km that first day out, and actually overtook Mary and Cole.

The next morning we were reunited and crossed the border together into Eagle that afternoon. Eagle is a small village and an interesting place – I was so hyper focused on calling immigration and finding out my fate, I didn’t take it in as much as I might have otherwise. So we went to the white phone box, with a yellow phone on the end of the laundromat to let America know we had arrived! I can’t tell you how deeply relieved and happy I was when the border security personnel approved my stay until the 5th of September, giving me time to finish my trip and spend some time in Anchorage before heading home. I know it is a place of privilege that allows me to take this trip. So a sad goodbye to Mary, Cole and Cedar (the doggo), I was back on the water and headed into Alaska! 

Eagle to Fort Yukon 

From Eagle to Circle, the river continues with strong currents and breathtaking mountains. There was even some re-emergence of Basalt cliffs, although nothing as spectacular as Fort Selkirk.

I was only two nights on the river solo before I caught up with my German friends Henrik and Moritz. We had bunny hopped each other on the Whitehorse to Dawson leg, sharing cups of tea and meals along the way. I caught them up at a beautiful cabin called Slaven Roadhouse. In fact they messaged me about the roadhouse as I stared at an uninviting, muddy and buggy sandbar considering camp. With the roadhouse only 15km away (not that far with these currents), I decided to join them! There was a lot of new friends at Slavens too, and when I arrived I was immediately invited to share dinner with some rafters who had brought too much food and were having a competition about who makes the best tacos. I accepted straight away. The cabin and facilities there are maintained by the National Parks Service, who do an amazing job, and it was awesome to be in such an incredible spot. 

The next day, I hit the water before Henrik and Moritz, but not by long and after they found me at lunch we kept paddling together. I didn’t know it then, but that was the first of many fun days to come paddling and camping together. As the kilometres ticked by, we found ourselves camped just before the village of Circle, looking at what I correctly assumed was the last hill before The Flats. Circle marks the start of ‘The Flats’, which is exactly what it sounds like. Between Circle and Fort Yukon the mountains melt into the land, and the river spreads wide, into a braided, confusing mess of sloughs and chaos.

As we passed through Circle, we met more paddlers! We were all as surprised as each other to see more people at this point of the river. Jo, Justin, Brandon, Abbey and their two dogs Max (a chocolate lab) and Sunny (a tiny white chiwowa), were packing into a river raft with two big oars and making a float to the Dalton highway. We shared camp with this crew of legends twice through this section, and it was awesome to hear their stories, passions and see another bunch of friends truly enjoying each other’s company and adventure.

The Flats are know for being full of bugs, very muddy and hard to navigate, with sloughs that change yearly. They were 100% that. The maps at this point became a vague indication that you were in fact, still on the Yukon, but besides that were useless. Here you truly had to let your boat follow its nose. On the water Henrik, Moritz and I would often paddle with some space, choosing different routes at times. This is when we saw the difference it made choosing the current. The widest channel was no longer where the strongest current was, so choosing the thickest stem did not equal success. At some point we all chose the slower route, me more often than others, but thankfully none of chose a doozy so bad that we had to portage.

BUT what isn’t said about The Flats, is how gorgeous they are. Now I will admit that we had incredible weather. It was blue skies, hot days, afternoon swims and gorgeous evenings. And with that came a real enjoyment of the expanse, the echoes that you could make bouncing your voice around 3 to 4 times. The birdlife and the wildlife was so beautiful. I also, ironically, had my first hammock camp on The Flats. It was so nice to feel the soft hug of my hammock. I had the most wonderful sleep. 

We arrived in Fort Yukon, by coincidence, on the 4th of July. America’s public holiday to celebrate its independence. We had heard that Fort Yukon puts on a good show, and it did not disappoint! We arrived at lunch time, literally as the parade of local cars, fire, ambulance and four wheelers drove by the boat ramp, throwing candy, tooting horns and cheering. We followed the noise and fun into town where everyone was setting up for a day of community fun. We were handed a schedule and invited to join the fun, with a free BBQ for everyone. I was immediately drawn into a women’s vs men tug of war. The women were strategising and drew me in, where I met Melanie. Just before the hand came down to indicate the start of the comp, Melanie said, I am the CEO of the local tribal group here, so anything you need just let me know. Then the pulling started. It was a quick and furious game in which the women were basically dragged unceremoniously down the road. We all agreed afterwards that we let the men win…

After tug of war, a woman came by asking people to come down to her desk at the end of the street to hear about the proposal to mine The Flats for oil and gas, and sign a letter if we were concerned. Of course I went right along and met a group of passionate local First Nations people who were getting letters written to protest the exploration of the Flats for Oil and Gas. Of course I penned my own letter. After paddling through this incredibly beautiful, natural and remote place for the last week, it broke my hear to think about it being mined. And truly, you should google how big the Flats are, because this is not a small proposal. It’s HUGE. It would be shattering to the ecosystems and the way of life for local people here. But, like many places around the world, there are strong, amazing First Nations leaders who are fighting for nature and their communities. 

It was about halfway through my second piece of watermelon and a bag of chips (after I skipped the burgers on the BBQ), that I realised it was Friday public holiday today, and then the post office would be closed all weekend, which meant my resupply of food here in the post office wouldn’t be accessible for three days. Not good. But Melanie’s words rung in my ears, and so I went to find her… couldn’t hurt to ask. She was quick to assure me that Emmanuel, the post officer was definitely here somewhere, and when she sees him, she will come get me and we can definitely grab the package. It was only about 20min later that I got to meet Emmanuel who very kindly helped me get my package from the post office, only 50m from where we were playing tug of war. It wasn’t just the fact that they helped, but how happily and kindly they did so.

The 4th of July celebrations continued and we enjoyed a tour of the local radio stations, watching running races, egg toss and more. We decided to hit the river again before the evenings party really took off, but I think we all left with big smiles, plenty of food and a good sense of how these communities celebrate. 

The last thing to mention about Fort Yukon is that, I passed halfway (1,500km!) and it’s above the Arctic Circle!! The most North I have ever been in my life! And if you’re wondering if I saw the Northern Lights. The answer is no. The sun never goes down, it’s always light and I am fighting for my life everyday not to be sunburnt. 

Fort Yukon to the Dalton Highway 

The Flats continue on to the Dalton Highway and we had more days of hot sunny weather. Now when I say hot, I mean 28 – 30 degrees Celsius. It was hot hot hot. Locals we met along the way agreed that it was unseasonably hot, and hadn’t been like this before.

Along this section I didn’t see as much wildlife, but I certainly saw their prints. Wolf prints as big as my hand, bear prints, porcupine prints, beaver prints were everywhere. It was on the section that Henrik (SO LUCKY) saw a lynx! We were all paddling in solitude, but when we met up for a snack and a drift, he showed us the photo evidence. So amazing to know that these animals are out here with us. Even if I don’t always see them. 

It took six days from Fort Yukon to the Dalton Highway and there were lots of little things along the way that made the trip memorable and enjoyable, but for me the absolute highlight was meeting Rhonda in Beaver. Before my trip, I did the research to find out the First Nations Territories of the entire length of the river, and send an email of introduction to their contact email. In my email, I introduced myself and shared my plan to travel through their traditional lands, and asked if they would have time to meet. Leaders of First Nations communities are busy people, I know that from home. So I didn’t expect that anyone would necessarily have time for me, but it was important for me to try. Rhonda is the First Chief of the Beaver Village Council, and she did get back to me, and although fate had me arrive on a Sunday, she welcomed not only myself, but also Henrik and Moritz to join her for a chat in her home while she cooked.

Rhonda inspired me. She shared with us about her role as First Chief and the work that the village council does coordinating the fire crews, the village amenities and governance, and education. But more than that she shared her passion. She talked about the impact of the demise of the Salmon in the Yukon, the threat of oil and gas mining on The Flats, the impacts of climate change on their community and the work that she is doing to fight for nature and her people. When I asked her how she learned so much, she talked about doing courses over the phone and traveling to learn and share. I only spent an hour with Rhonda and I came away truly and deeply inspired. She is on the frontline of so many difficult issues, but she met the conversation and her work with humour and spirit. I am sure there are many others like Rhonda across this landscape and I feel so happy to have met her. 

Getting to the Dalton Highway was a huge milestone and so cool to get there with two friends to celebrate. We stopped in at the roadhouse, where I ordered a veggie burger and chips!! Yum! When the burger came out, it had soup with it, not chips. I had been dreaming of hot chips for days. So I checked – “I ordered a veggie burger with fries’. She said ‘oh yes’, sorry – I’ll be right back. She came back, said ‘sorry I got the fries wrong’, and gave me some chips. I looked at the burger and thought, that doesn’t look like a veggie burger, but I guess it’s a ‘beyond beef’ pattie…

It was about halfway through eating the burger that I became convinced that I was eating meat, but I was too far gone at that point. As I finished the last bite, a very worried waitress came back and explained that I had eaten a beef burger. I can’t really remember what I said, but she had the veggie burger in her hand, and I ended up eating that too. I had already been considering more food, so the second burger and chips was a win, and I decided to ignore that I was accidentally eating cow (for the second time on this trip). 

As we were leaving, the manager (who had helped Moritz and Henrik restock on some food), mentioned that there were free showers and towels if we wanted. At that point we were on our way out, so thanked him but left. But that shower stayed on my mind because I was two weeks without a shower at this point. As we packed up our boats, the rafters who had started at Circle arrived, meeting their destination on time! It was at this point that my shower brain took charge, and I told the guys I would meet them at camp, but I am going to have that shower. BEST DECISION EVER. It was melt-your-body hot, with white fluffy towels, and soap. I felt AMAZING when I paddled into camp that night as fresh as a daisy. What a great way to celebrate reaching the Dalton Highway. 

Dalton Highway to Galena

From the Dalton Highway we were headed for Tanana. The Dalton highway marks the end of The Flats, and the mountains are back! WOW. I didn’t realise how much I had missed them. They bring depth to the landscape and you have so much more to stare at through the day. The mountains to Tanana really put on a show. Firstly we paddled through some areas that had previously burned and the fireweed was growing everywhere, covering the slopes in a purple haze. Fireweed is a sign of rejuvenation that’s widely celebrated throughout the Yukon in Canada and Alaska, and I can really see why. It was a truly beautiful sight. 

Next came a drastic change to the landscape as the mountains filled with granite, and huge boulders lined the shore. The river grew narrow again and as the water pushed through these bouldery channels the current picked up again. The boils in the river returned and we were being pulled down a beautiful fast paced section. Now, as we come close to the coast again, the Bald Eagles are back and the birdlife is changing. It really is amazing how much this river winds through and the changes you see along the way. 

We stopped in Tanana, and this time to use the Washeteria. Which meant showers, clean clothes and although fate had us arriving on a Sunday again, we met Cynthia, the owner of the local store who opened up just for us. Apart from resupplying Moritz and Henrik, I got some more mosquito coils, a cool hoodie that says ‘Life is better on the Yukon’ and a dozen eggs. Cynthia also shared with use her local knowledge of the river and passion for life out here. She called us what many people do on this end of the river ‘Drifters’ or ‘Floaters’. While I am slightly offended by the lack of mention of my paddling efforts, the term is said with friendliness and endearment. The local people along this river are so excited to meet drifters/floaters, to hear your story, share theirs and the passion for the river. I guess it’s something we all share, a passion for this beautiful place. 

After Tanana it was time to break up the trio. Henrik and Moritz have a deadline to meet on this trip, so they can continue on to other commitments. With no such deadline, and no desire for this to end sooner than it needs to, we decided to go our different speeds, despite going the same way, lol. It has been so awesome making another two friends for life. Henrik and Moritz helped me to love the mud instead of hate it, deepened my love for a daily swim (after Mary started wearing me down earlier in the trip), taught me the beauty of sand bars and why the effort to light a campfire even when it’s still sunlight, is so worth it. We had so much fun being silly, laughing and joking through the Flats, a real highlight for me.

So far on this ‘solo’ trip, I have enjoyed the company of more paddlers than I could have imagined. I have made friends for life, and in some ways being solo made that possible, so maybe being solo isn’t always about being alone. Except for the next month. I don’t expect to meet any more paddlers this far down.

I ended up sharing lunch with Henrik and Moritz one last time at Folgers Camp, which is a cabin that Ruby in Tanana told us we should stop at. After lunch the guys paddled on, but the winds were picking up and the next day was predicted to rain. The cabin was so beautiful, so I decided to take the rest of the afternoon off, and have a rest day in the cabin the next day.

My third rest day of the trip and the best decision ever. As I watched the wind increase all afternoon, and then the rain get added to the mess the next day, I felt pleased sitting inside four walls with a roof over my head. I listened to old cassettes, danced, slept, did yoga and read a book from start to finish. The perfect day. 

After Folgers Camp the next moment of note is Horner Hot Springs. What an experience. Firstly, you come to the landing point marked by pink flagging tape and the entrance to a creek. You step immediately into knee deep mud. After removing said leg and paddling over to a precarious log, you balance your way up, leaving your towel (too hard to reach from the log) and settling for spa accessories of bear spray and Garmin in-reach. From here you step into the forest and are completely engulfed in a vivacious cloud of mosquitos. So you start the walk to the hot springs at a slight jog. Not knowing how long the walk is, you’re hoping it’s going to be worth it. That thought deepens as the track turns into many boggy swamp crossings and waist high ferns and grasses. Just as you’re starting to wonder if you’re going to just be sitting in a warm swamp much like Shrek’s, you face plant it as you’re engulfed in mid thigh high mud.

At this point it doesn’t matter if the spring is hot, you’re getting there and you will at least get cleaner than you are now. Finally you arrive, and on first impressions it’s not much. Someone has set up a tarp pool to catch the hot water, and there are milk crates and boards scattered around to keep you out of the mud. Someone has made this better than a swamp. Then you lower yourself into the water, and set up the spout to bring in the fresh piping hot flow, and it all melts away. It’s worth it. So hot and awesome (even if the mosquitos are still trying to eat your eyes. It’s only improved by the cold plunge in the creek next to the piping hot spring. Although the walk back was an ongoing attempt not to be carried away be mosquitos, the hour or so I spent in those hot springs were totally worth it. 

Since then I have had beautiful camps on sand bars and gravel bars. Finally some cloud came over, and I don’t even mind the rain that followed me through Ruby and a bit today, it’s honestly so nice to have a break from the blaring sun. Hopefully I don’t eat my words in the coming weeks, as the delta is known for its storms. Although I miss the company of others, it’s also amazing to be solo again. Being at my pace, having space to think, to sing loudly and badly (maybe that’s why I haven’t seen any bears yet?) and to be alone with nature really is wonderful. 

I am in Galena, somehow my schedule has me here on a Sunday again. So hopefully I can get my resupply, or I will stay one more night here. I have 18 – 21 days (depending on weather) to Emmonak. This section is known as the Delta, and is known for storms, mud and bears, so please keep me in your thoughts and wish me luck as I venture into my last weeks of this incredible journey!  P.S. If you made it all the way through that blog, you probably have enough resilience to do this paddle!